Against the Grain
Everyone talks about the summer farmers market. The heirloom tomatoes, the stone fruit, the overflowing baskets of berries. And yes, those months are glorious.
But can I tell you a secret? I think I might love the winter market more.
What I Am Bringing Home
Right now my bags are full of things that don't photograph as well but taste just as extraordinary: knobby celeriac that roasts into something sweet and creamy. Delicata squash that caramelizes at the edges until it practically melts. Purple-top turnips that are nothing like the waxy things you find in grocery stores. Bunches of black kale so dark green they're almost blue.
There is a depth to winter cooking that summer just can't match. Everything is slow. Braised, roasted, simmered for hours. The kind of cooking where your windows fog up and the whole house smells like garlic and thyme and something wonderful happening in the oven.
Cooking with the Season
This month I am working on a series of recipes built entirely around what I find at the Wednesday market. No plan, no shopping list \u2014 just whatever looks beautiful that morning. It is the most freeing way to cook, and I think you will love what comes out of it.
Stay tuned. The first recipe drops next week, and it involves an entire head of cauliflower, a truly irresponsible amount of brown butter, and a loaf of good sourdough.